Fishing

Despite nearly two years living in Japan, I’ve kept distance from a lot of traditional aspects of the country’s long, rich history. Tradition and history had never been motivators
for me until I learned about a traditional fishing technique called “ukai” (鵜飼).

Cormorants, a type of bird, are trained and commanded by cormorant masters to go fishing. The cormorants can swallow fish of various sizes, kept in a kind of sack in their necks. Masters learn to tie their necks at just the right tightness to prevent big fish from being swallowed, but allowing small ones to pass through. As the cormorants catch fish, the master can remove the big ones
from their beaks.

The cormorants are thought
of as family.

This experience begins in the city of Uji where there are still 3 cormorant masters. We board one of a few boats that circle the river as the light
of day fades.

There’s a sense of stillness. Only a light breeze with calm waters, though the sound of rushing water can be heard
in the distance.

The famous nearby temple Byodo-in, featured on Japanese currency, is already closed for the day. No crowds remain other than those boarding.

Both locals and tourists wear kimonos starting around springtime. Though I’ve never been one to do it, I can see
how happy people are to immerse in the nearby old-town streetscapes
this way.

Some of the other customers thought the cormorant masters would be fishing from our boats, but the staff explained that they have their own boat, preparing their attire, the cormorants,
and a bonfire.

The boats pace the river up and down. The ripples and distortions were stronger where we started, becoming nearly smooth and transparent the further down we drifted.

A grey heron standing in its territory, the staff explained. It stood there almost every day uncontested. It was still standing there hours later when this was all finished.

Three of our boats circle. Some people rest their heads on the sides of the boat, watching the river flow by. Others point in surprise. Where the water calms, we can see the bottom of the river which is a lot closer than it seems. Light is fading fast.

Our three boats join together and anchor themselves in the middle of the river. A fire comes to life and conversations go silent.

With the boats anchored, the masters’ boat circles us instead.

The bonfire is set firmly and hung low while the cormorants are placed one by one into the water. Then, the master’s voice breaks the sound of the splashing water with melody. She sings as a cue for the cormorants to start diving.

The man at the other end of the boat knocks repeatedly on the side of it, which is supposed to get the fish moving beneath the surface
of the water.

The master knows when a cormorant has caught something it can’t swallow. It gets reeled back in, she plucks the fish from its beak and sends it back
out soon after.

I understand this is performance, but this was the livelihood of so many people at a point in time.

The cormorants and their master finish a hard day’s work, the bonfire extinguished, and our three boats slowly dock to
send
us back home.

Fishing

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